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Black Diamond - Ahwahnee

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Based on 1 year's data from Mar 18, 2026 How it works

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r/MountaineeringMount Logan Expedition – Gear Advice Needed (Tents, Boots, VBLs, Stove, etc.)
6 months ago

I've not been on Logan but done plenty of long cold climbing trips elsewhere. I'd take a spare stove, preferably an XGK, Whisperlite or Optimus as your main stove and the Jetboil as a backup. I always liked the metal pump on the Optimus and used one for years, but also used an XGK a lot and only ever cracked one pump. Consider making a stove board for the MSR for lower camps, a bit heavy but very useful. Light plywood or similar with a layer of foil glued/tacked on the top, bungee cord through two places to hold the bottle in place. Makes a flat, secure cooking platform. Doubles as cutting board. I've not used Samaya but plenty of Bibler/BD single walls and they all have bad condensation/frost buildup in real world use. Double walls are definitely warmer and more secure (if damaged) and much better to ride out several days for storm. Maybe take a Samaya for the highest camp, something like a MH Trango down lower. Personally I have valences sewn onto my expedition tents for such trips, but many don't bother. I tested but never used VBL liners. Modern 8000m boots made their warmth benefit redundant, and I never got very sweaty socks, but if you do they might be good. But for feet, they require planning and care to use properly - the right liner sock, changing them daily, maybe foot powder etc. Years ago I used basic old Asolo 101 plastic boots on Denali WB and they were fine, but they were nice comfy fit and I had 40Below overboots as backup.

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