Vantrue - E1

I've used Vantrue E1, Garmin Mini 2 and Vantrue N5. The Garmin mini and the Vantrue E1 are 1-channel but they are nice. The screen in the E1 makes a difference for me in terms of reviewing clips, config, etc. which you need to do via WiFi connection for the Garmin mini 2; and the E1 can be paired with a small remote control to save/lock clips and enable/disable the mic recording. From your post, I'd check these ones out and decide. The CPL filter makes a difference but not a must. The N5 is another level with 3 channels, and big bunch of features but also a looot more expensive. At this point, I would have gone for a cheaper model from Vantrue with LTE module. I did take a look at the Viofo dashcams before buying and they also give very good value for their money. The A119 Duo is a good 2-channel that will not break your bank. Do keep in mind that the dashcams don't come with microSD cards and those endurance cards tend to be from 30€ upwards (don't go for anything else, imho, or you may face issues saving videos).

I recommend this one: [Vantrue E1 2.7K WiFi Mini Dash Cam](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2W81VG6) Most dashcams stick to your windshield, which is technically illegal in NY (even though law enforcement doesn't seem to care), and this one can stick to your dash. (Has an upside down mode for it.) This model is also easy to use through their app, oppose to using a dashcam's built UI which can be irritating to navigate.

I have had great luck with the Vantrue E1 with the hardwire kit and the polarizing filter. It's got by far the best video quality of any dashcam I've owned, including at night. You can get ones that only look in one direction, and you can get front/rear-looking ones in two configurations: ones that have a single unit on the windshield and a front-and-rear-facing lens on that unit (limited utility IMO because much of the rear view would be of the occupants of the car, and less of what's actually happening behind), and ones with a separate camera unit that mounts in the rear (better utility, but also more work to install because you have to run a wire around or above the headliner to mount the rear camera. Word to the wise: Be *really* leery of cheap cameras that advertise "4K" capability; they still have the same crappy low-res image sensor that 1K and 2K cameras have, they just "upscale" the video to 4k before saving it. So when you play it back, yes, the video is in 4K, but you won't be able to make any additional detail out, because the sensor itself didn't have more than 1K lines of resolution, so all the "4K has gained you is bigger video files for the same level of actual quality. Some cameras do offer wifi (including the Vantrue I recommended). I'm not sure if any of them stream directly to your phone, but I suspect not, because for that to be the case, the phone would have to be connected to the cam as if the cam was its wifi router, or the cam and the phone would have to both be connected to the *same* wifi router (not common in many cars); the wifi-enabled ones that I am familiar with (including the Vantrue) can be put into wifi mode, where the cam acts as a router, and the phone can connect to it, and then the cam app on the phone can download videos and/or change settings on the camera...but all of that is in an "offline" mode where the cam is not actually recording. Some cameras will have either a battery or capacitor for backup power (to allow them to activate and capture video if the car is bumped while turned off and parked, for instance). If you want that capability, buy the "capacitor" type, not the "battery" type; rechargeable batteries really *really* don't like the temperatures that closed cars get in the summer sun, and can catch fire. The worst a capacitor will do is: fail. Better still, if you want incident recording capability while parked, get one with a dual-power hardwire kit (the vantrue has this capability). You wire one of the leads to a fuse that is always powered in the fusebox, and the other to a fuse that is only on when the ignition is on; the camera will draw really low power from the first connection when the car is off, so its screen will be off and it will not record unless it detects an incident. When you turn the car on, the other connection will power up, and the camera will turn its screen on and begin recording constantly.

Oh, you're welcome! I'm just incapable of writing a short reply when a long one is a possibility. :-D One thing I wanted to clarify about my response, which I noted on re-reading. When I said this: > You can get ones that only look in one direction, and you can get front/rear-looking ones in two configurations ...I was speaking of dashcams in general, not of the Vantrue E1. The E1 is a front-looking-only model. Vantrue may in fact have front-and-rear models, but I never did that research, because I have a convertible, and so a rear-facing cam mounted at the back window would be unworkable, and a dual-lens windshield unit would have to look out the tiny rear window, to see anything, so most of the video would be of my own face, which I don't really need to see all the time. So if you want a dual-cam option, Vantrue may have one, but it's not specifically the E1 (some manufacturers make secondary rear modules that plug into the primary for rear-view recording; vantrue *may* offer one of these for the E1, I just don't know). So if you want front- and rear-facing recording, do your research carefully.

My Vantru was 3 years old when the Texas sun took it out.

I think it may have been my fault. Wife got me a front windshield cover that opens like an umbrella, I forgot to take the camera down so it was cooked. The inside cam worked, the forward camera blanked out

I recommend getting this little [doodad](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RRSC9XF) that lets you pull power out of the mirror / homelink. (Assuming you have a mirror with power.) Saves you running wires everywhere. At that point, any dashcam will do. I went with the [Vantrue E1](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2W81VG6). It's worked well for me, but there are newer things on the market. Apparently [Car & Driver](https://www.caranddriver.com/car-accessories/g46063800/best-dash-cams-tested/) likes the Vantrue N4 best.

I’ve got a Vantrue E1 that was very simple to hardwire. It’s mounted to my windshield with 3M adhesive and only a single wire running from the mount a few inches to my headliner is visible. I like it because I can move it to any vehicle I purchase pretty easily

https://preview.redd.it/eqib7mc39o2f1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e326f28e7704a4a69657742d21045d1e3f0e7857 i just got this done last night, the best i can do to minimize the cable showing, getting power from the mirror using a y split adapter, filed the housing a little bit so i could get the usb cable run thru the black housing, dashcam is vanture e1, chose this dashcam coz it is small enough that i can install at the center without block much of my sight

Vantrue or VIOFO. They both use the Sony Starvis image sensor and have great quality. The cameras are pretty set and forget if you opt for the hardwire kit. It will turn on and off with the car and start recording as soon as it starts up. The included power adapter does the same thing if your power port in your car turns off with the ignition.

I got the fitcam version I think it was and then a Vantrue dashcam mini that was $110-$120 USD. Works pretty well!

Jaz imam dashcam dobro leto, razen “zanimivosti” v obliki kamikaz, posledic prometnih nesreč, živali, romunskih mojstrov volana ipd., zaenkrat še nisem bil v situaciji, da bi posnetek karkoli dokazoval. Sem pa mnenja, da se za dashcam raje da kakšen euro več, da so posnetki dobri, tako podnevi kot ponoči ali slabem vremenu. Jaz imam Vantrue E1 in je super.