Vantrue - E1

I've used Vantrue E1, Garmin Mini 2 and Vantrue N5. The Garmin mini and the Vantrue E1 are 1-channel but they are nice. The screen in the E1 makes a difference for me in terms of reviewing clips, config, etc. which you need to do via WiFi connection for the Garmin mini 2; and the E1 can be paired with a small remote control to save/lock clips and enable/disable the mic recording. From your post, I'd check these ones out and decide. The CPL filter makes a difference but not a must. The N5 is another level with 3 channels, and big bunch of features but also a looot more expensive. At this point, I would have gone for a cheaper model from Vantrue with LTE module. I did take a look at the Viofo dashcams before buying and they also give very good value for their money. The A119 Duo is a good 2-channel that will not break your bank. Do keep in mind that the dashcams don't come with microSD cards and those endurance cards tend to be from 30€ upwards (don't go for anything else, imho, or you may face issues saving videos).

I recommend this one: [Vantrue E1 2.7K WiFi Mini Dash Cam](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2W81VG6) Most dashcams stick to your windshield, which is technically illegal in NY (even though law enforcement doesn't seem to care), and this one can stick to your dash. (Has an upside down mode for it.) This model is also easy to use through their app, oppose to using a dashcam's built UI which can be irritating to navigate.

My Vantru was 3 years old when the Texas sun took it out.

I think it may have been my fault. Wife got me a front windshield cover that opens like an umbrella, I forgot to take the camera down so it was cooked. The inside cam worked, the forward camera blanked out

Many dashcams offer a fuse tap kit. In my 2019 Forester I have a Vantrue cam with the fuse tap kit. The fuse box is right behind the door by the driver's left knee. I just ran the power cable under the edge of the headliner, down under the edge of the piller to the fuse box and tapped it right there. No use of 12V socket on center console, no exposed wiring whatsoever (except for the very short part from the cam to the headliner.

I recommend getting this little [doodad](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RRSC9XF) that lets you pull power out of the mirror / homelink. (Assuming you have a mirror with power.) Saves you running wires everywhere. At that point, any dashcam will do. I went with the [Vantrue E1](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2W81VG6). It's worked well for me, but there are newer things on the market. Apparently [Car & Driver](https://www.caranddriver.com/car-accessories/g46063800/best-dash-cams-tested/) likes the Vantrue N4 best.

I’ve got a Vantrue E1 that was very simple to hardwire. It’s mounted to my windshield with 3M adhesive and only a single wire running from the mount a few inches to my headliner is visible. I like it because I can move it to any vehicle I purchase pretty easily

https://preview.redd.it/eqib7mc39o2f1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e326f28e7704a4a69657742d21045d1e3f0e7857 i just got this done last night, the best i can do to minimize the cable showing, getting power from the mirror using a y split adapter, filed the housing a little bit so i could get the usb cable run thru the black housing, dashcam is vanture e1, chose this dashcam coz it is small enough that i can install at the center without block much of my sight

Vantrue or VIOFO. They both use the Sony Starvis image sensor and have great quality. The cameras are pretty set and forget if you opt for the hardwire kit. It will turn on and off with the car and start recording as soon as it starts up. The included power adapter does the same thing if your power port in your car turns off with the ignition.

I got the fitcam version I think it was and then a Vantrue dashcam mini that was $110-$120 USD. Works pretty well!

? The Vantrue E1 (second photo) is a good cam from a respected manufacturer.