MV7i

Shure MV7i and MV7+ combo The “i” will be the interface for the “+”, and eliminate the issue with echo and cancellation since there is only one input to the computer. The correct solution is the cheapest solution.

I use SM7b’s and I would recommend the MV7i if you ever plan to use a second mic, or the MV7+ for direct to computer use. They connect directly with USB-C cables. If you have the budget then yes an interface like a Shure MVX2u or focusright into the SM7bd will sound about 20% better at twice the cost. The SM7b will need a cloudlifter between the interface and mic, whereas the SM7db has it already built into the mic. And just for fun check out Colorware.com where they can customize which ever Shure Mic you go with.

I started with the AT2020. The biggest hurdle will be room treatment. This mic will pick up EVERYTHING. "XLR is better" people are silly. This IS the regular cardioid AT2020 with a basic interface built in. Its D-tier, but it's a start. From experience, I would suggest that you save your money and buy something higher quality that will last you longer into your career. I personally like dynamic mics. The Shure MV6 or MV7i would be slightly better in my opinion.

Oh yes.. I was going to say the same this as Remote. Look at the MV7i or MV7+ instead. It's got USB-C so it hooks up directly. If you don't know what you need, you probably don't need a mixer etc etc. MV7i gives you an XLR \*input\* into the microphone, so you could hook up a second mic, or an instrument. The MV7+ is a regular mic with USB-C and XLR \*output\*, so you can use it directly with the mac or eventually hook it up to a mixer.

OK, I see from previous replies that you're really a gamer with $500 burning a hole in his pocket and don't plan to record anything. What your AI assistant doesn't know is that Shure has released a bunch of modern versions of their classic SM7B because the original was kind of a hothouse flower that required a ton of gain. The MV7x you mentioned is one of those, but it has an XLR output and requires an audio interface and then you have to get the gain structure set correctly. The MV7+ doesn't need an interface because it can connect via USB. For an extra $100, you can get a MV7i, which has an extra combo input on the back in case you ever do want to do an interview or record a guitar solo. All of these MV7 versions are voiced a little more forward than a SM7B, and they have a more aggressive bass roll-off to compensate for proximity effect. Shure assumed that podcasters wouldn't know how to use EQ productively, and they were probably correct. Everyone who suggested entry-level recording mics missed the use case. It's voice-over in a completely untreated room. This is the right tool for that. (I actually use a RE20 for the same purpose, but it's another hothouse flower that needs a great preamp/interface. Leave it for the pros.)

You could go for a mic with a built-in audio interface. For example: Shure MV7 – it has a USB output and is based on the legendary SM7B, the favorite mic of many podcasters. The sound is a bit different but still very similar. It’s a dynamic mic, so it’ll cut out a lot of background noise. You mentioned that noise isn’t a problem for you, BUT even if the room is quiet, an untreated space will still have nasty echo and reverb. Dynamic mics help reduce that. Rode NT-USB – this one’s condenser, not top-tier but still miles ahead of the mics you listed. AT2020USB – also a solid condenser option. If you’re okay with having a few more devices on your desk, getting a mic + external audio interface combo will give you noticeably better quality. Some good budget interfaces: Focusrite Scarlett Solo – some people say it’s overrated, but I wouldn’t agree UAD Volt – nice SSL 2 – from the company behind the mixing consoles used on half the hit records ever made And for mics to pair with them: - Audio-Technica AT2020 - sE Electronics X1s (i personally very like it🙃) - Rode NT1 --- No mic should ever be right up to your mouth. Even stage vocal mics are meant to have a bit of distance. For all the ones I mentioned, keep roughly 20 cm (about 8 inches) away. Personally, I don’t even pay attention to how far mine is — it’s on a boom arm, sometimes ends up half a meter (around 20 inches) away, and I just don’t care. It still sounds fine, since most apps for calls and stuff already do some loudness leveling. But if you actually want better sound — stay around 20–30 cm (8–12 inches).