Q2 Max QMK/VIA Wireless Custom Mechanical Keyboard

So I switched from Windows11 to linux. I had a razer huntsman with optical switches and it was ok in windows. It was very loud and the dial was always flaky. Even using open razer I wouldn’t recommend any razer stuff in linux. You can change some of the RGB stuff but changing anything meaningful doesn’t work. I have a 65% keychron HE keyboard now and it works perfectly in linux. You can set the RGB stuff but you can set actuation points or change what keys do what. And it does that using a web app so nothing needs installing. Works with bluetooth, wired or using the included wifi dongle.

I have Q6 (wired only) and it is a very sturdy, stiff board with steel plate (replacement pc, fr4, brass and aluminum available). Not sure about the Q Max / Ultra, they have PC plate and more sound insulation layers. They are QMK / VIA (open source firmware). ND104 is better though hardware-wise - it supports all sorts of fun layouts (split shifts, backspace, space, can remove screen / knob for more keys). Native config app is wonky though (I can't upload macros) but VIA app works fine. It is not QMK, has closed firmware. Oh and battery life with the rgb lights off / screen on minimum brightness was 1 week, I'm sure it's a bug. Today I removed the screen since it does not add anything to a keyboard (that took about 30 seconds). I wonder how battery life improves with that. Considering splitting the right shift now.

Keychrons with the Gateron Jupiter Banana are awesome. You can theoretically get the Bananas separately from Gateron, whenever it's on stock.

It's Logitech, so no. Banana is a slightly heavier and smoother tactile switch. For the K4 you need to get the RGB backlight version with the hot-swappable switches. The default is soldered which is practically a war crime.

There's no best keyboard. It's all preference. Well the answer is to walk into a shop and try them all honestly. I started with a kbt race brown switches, to filco majestouch 2 red switch, swapped the red to durock t1 tactiles, used ducky, ikbc, daskeyboard which were mix of blue and some switches I forgot. Also Anne pro 1 for a bit, and finally recently ended up with a keychron with mmd holy panda tactile switches but then swapped to gateron milky yellow linear switches. I've tried most of the keyboard layouts and switch types. Clicky, tactile, linear. I've never used the numpad ever, I don't use most of the home/pgup/pgdwn keys so 75% was the best for me. I just need the delete key and an F row and arrow keys. Find out what keys you use. Then walk into a shop and try the different sizes, try the switches, get one which have hot swappable switch feature(quite common now). Every keyboard sounds different. Different switches and keycaps will sound different on one keyboard and another. So if you want certain sound characteristics then you need to research on what materials are most often known for said sounds. Then try them out and hope you get the sound you want. It's trial and error. Go out and try as many as possible. There's no easy way if you really care. I personally avoid clicky switches because I don't like having to release the click before pressing the key down again while gaming. If you just want a "gaming" keyboard. Just search for famous brands and throw a dart on a dartboard. Modern mkbs are pretty good in quality these days. Double typing is more of a luck thing imo after trying so many. Durable, most modern mkbs are really durable like from keychron.

If you're thinking about Keychron it might be better if you wait a bit longer since a new low-profile model is apparently being worked on. Additionally, if you want to use your keyboard wirelessly for tasks other than office work/internet browsing you should consider buying one that has a dedicated 2.4GHz dongle. The Keychron K Max series has one (alongside a better MCU iirc) and isn't that much more expensive compared to the K3 Pro. And one last thing - don't ever consider buying low profile boards from NuPhy. Speaking from my own experience while the hardware is decent (case/switches/keycaps) the firmware so so horribly bad that the 2.4GHz mode is practically unusable. The marketed 1200 hours of battery life also seems a bit overly generous.

Mac user here who went down this exact rabbit hole. 🍎 **1. Cross off the HE (Wooting/Magnetic) boards immediately.** You said you 'very, very rarely' game. HE switches are linear (no bump) and hyper-sensitive. Coming from a Magic Keyboard (which has a sharp tactile snap), HE switches will feel like typing on a wet sponge. It is tech you do not need. **2. Important Correction:** You listed the **IQUNIX Magi75** under 'Slim Keyboards.' **It is not slim.** It is a standard-height mechanical board. *However*, that isn't a bad thing. I switched from a Magic Keyboard to an aluminum IQUNIX (Zonex 75), and while it took a week to get used to the height (get a wrist rest), the build quality feels like an Apple product. It is heavy, solid aluminum—not plastic. **3. The 'Chinese' Fear:** In the mechanical keyboard world, 'Chinese' doesn't mean cheap. It usually means Enthusiast. * **Razer/Logitech/Corsair:** often use cheap ABS plastic caps and non-standard layouts. * **IQUNIX/Nuphy/Keychron:** use PBT keycaps, aluminum cases, and open-source software (QMK/VIA) that doesn't need to run in the background. **My Advice:** Since you have a huge budget: * **If you MUST stay Slim:** Get the **Nuphy Air75 V2** (ISO). It feels closest to the Magic Keyboard. * **If you want Premium Quality:** Get the **IQUNIX** or a **Keychron Q-Series** (ISO). Just make sure you get **Tactile** switches (Browns/Bananas), not Reds, to mimic that Apple tactile bump.

As you are saying, the reason why you need to replace your keyboard is because you are buying cheaper keyboards. It's probably worth spending 150£ on one that will last you 5 years and that you will change because you want to rather than because you need to! I'd check into keychron UK and look at their mechanical keyboards. They are great quality and if you get a hotswapable keyboard you will not only be able to change the keycaps but also the switches themselves.