Q6 HE

I got a Q6 Max and went from there. Ended up replacing the stabs, key caps, and switches. Cherry profile caps instead of the stock KSA, a fast and light silent tactile switch (outemu silent lemon v3) instead of the stock gateron Jupiter tactiles, and Swagkeys Knight stabs because the stock stabs were terrible. This is just what worked for me for both gaming and typing. It's completely subjective though and the hobby is really about figuring out what works for you.

Case, PCB, and the various layers, but otherwise, yep. Even got a really nice custom coiled cable. The Q6 Max was the foundation for me. A great keyboard out of the box for many people, and initially I was really happy with it, but then I started fine tuning my preferences and went from there.

I would get this over the 8K, because Keychron's version of ZMK in the 8K doesn't support ZMK Studio so you're dependent on Keychron keeping Launcher up indefinitely. * https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q6-he-qmk-wireless-custom-keyboard > is the full-size HE keyboard market still immature enough that I’d be better off waiting? The magnetic keyboard market as a whole is kind of dodgy. Only Keychron has open source HE or TMR firmware, but there are people working on adding it to QMK or ZMK which should open things up. Honestly, I would go with the Keychron K10 for a 100% board right now. With Keychron Silent Banana switches for typing feel.

The Huntsman that he's comparing it with has a bunch of gaming features that the Keychron electromechanical boards do not support, which is why I listed one of the magnetic boards. Also... The Q7 has a very flexi gasket mount and they have a history of working the sockets loose and causing problems after a few months and their support ranges from very poor to abusive. I would not get any Keychron Q or V series keyboards except for the except for the very basic tray mount ones. has

Some of the basic Q boards are tray mount. You might have one of those.

keyboard: keychron q6 max, switches are combo of kailh box jades and gateron reds mouse: razer basilisk v3 pro 35k the keeb is qmk/via so no os-side software is necessary, you can program it from webbrowser (tho i have to chmod /dev/hidraw nodes first) the mouse requires os-side software for programming but it has onboard memory for profiles (which you can switch with mouse button), so i just configure it from windows once and im done forever. there is openrazer for linux but it is only partial implementation of the features.

OK so…. 1. Double typing can be a result of tired out switches, but can also (perhaps more commonly) be caused by dirt and dust or loose connections on the PCB (circuit board) especially if your keyboard is hot swappable (you can easily remove and replace the switches without having to solder them in), it’s really easy to push too hard or bend the board and pop out a connection. Also software (firmware and drivers typically) can end up old and conflicted and can cause problems. Just FYI. 2. It sounds like you need a sturdy board and the Keychron is a hefty chunk of alumninium, so you’ll def get that. I’d always urge you to consider getting a slimmer board so that your setup is more convenient to use, the next size down is an 1800 with 96% of the keys like the the Keychron Q5. 3. When it comes to switches, there are currently 3 main types (that aren’t bog standard membrane) and there are two you’ll be interested in - standard MX switches and HE (magnetic) switches. Effectively the switches in most keyboards are “analogue” in that they work by connecting two metal terminals when you press them (MX) and performance is therefore only improvable by improving the transmission of that signal to the computer - the polling rate - the Q6 is ok compared to most gaming boards but the Q5/Q6 Max are better. Hall Effect (HE) switches activate when a magnetic field detects that a certain point on the keypress is reached and there’s an instant voltage change. These are popular now for gaming because you can set that activation point wherever you like and also have multiple on a single key. Keychron does an HE version of both the Q5 and Q6 which both also have the same 1000Hz polling rate as the max. In terms of switches wearing out, if you get a hot swappable board you can just replace them. The HE boards Keychron makes are only compatible with one type of switch (Gateron double rails) which are actually pretty good, and the lack of mechanical action makes it much less likely they’ll wear out. For gaming MX / Cherry switches ( not to be confused with cherry profile keycaps) there are two types people like for gaming, linear or tactile with a definite bump when you press them. That’s really a matter of personal taste (I can’t stand linear switches and find my fingers splaying out across the board in need of some sort of rebound) but this is where you get to sample a few, read around the subject and try them out. The Keychron keycaps are all pretty good. 4. RGB - if you mean north facing (shines straight through the top of the keycap) or south facing, north facing rgbs can interfere with certain types of keycap and generally south facing are actually considered better (they’re also much brighter from the users perspective). Keychron does a side printed OSA profile set and their RGB customisation has 22 types of setting plus adjustable brightness, speed on each of them etc. Generally, the more performance orientated the board, the less likely you’re going to get north facing rgbs. Hope this helped!

OK so…. 1. Double typing can be a result of tired out switches, but can also (perhaps more commonly) be caused by dirt and dust or loose connections on the PCB (circuit board) especially if your keyboard is hot swappable (you can easily remove and replace the switches without having to solder them in), it’s really easy to push too hard or bend the board and pop out a connection. Also software (firmware and drivers typically) can end up old and conflicted and can cause problems. Just FYI. 2. It sounds like you need a sturdy board and the Keychron is a hefty chunk of alumninium, so you’ll def get that. I’d always urge you to consider getting a slimmer board so that your setup is more convenient to use, the next size down is an 1800 with 96% of the keys like the the Keychron Q5. 3. When it comes to switches, there are currently 3 main types (that aren’t bog standard membrane) and there are two you’ll be interested in - standard MX switches and HE (magnetic) switches. Effectively the switches in most keyboards are “analogue” in that they work by connecting two metal terminals when you press them (MX) and performance is therefore only improvable by improving the transmission of that signal to the computer - the polling rate - the Q6 is ok compared to most gaming boards but the Q5/Q6 Max are better. Hall Effect (HE) switches activate when a magnetic field detects that a certain point on the keypress is reached and there’s an instant voltage change. These are popular now for gaming because you can set that activation point wherever you like and also have multiple on a single key. Keychron does an HE version of both the Q5 and Q6 which both also have the same 1000Hz polling rate as the max. In terms of switches wearing out, if you get a hot swappable board you can just replace them. The HE boards Keychron makes are only compatible with one type of switch (Gateron double rails) which are actually pretty good, and the lack of mechanical action makes it much less likely they’ll wear out. For gaming MX / Cherry switches ( not to be confused with cherry profile keycaps) there are two types people like for gaming, linear or tactile with a definite bump when you press them. That’s really a matter of personal taste (I can’t stand linear switches and find my fingers splaying out across the board in need of some sort of rebound) but this is where you get to sample a few, read around the subject and try them out. The Keychron keycaps are all pretty good. 4. RGB - if you mean north facing (shines straight through the top of the keycap) or south facing, north facing rgbs can interfere with certain types of keycap and generally south facing are actually considered better (they’re also much brighter from the users perspective). Keychron does a side printed OSA profile set and their RGB customisation has 22 types of setting plus adjustable brightness, speed on each of them etc. Generally, the more performance orientated the board, the less likely you’re going to get north facing rgbs. Hope this helped!

Well, the version I had an eye on and showed as "low stock" up until a few minutes ago now shows as "sold out". I just placed an order for the Q6 max, far more expensive but is available with the ES layout so it should be usable out of the box. Wish me luck..

Ok, I just placed my order for a Q6. I feel like I just bet €250 on a single number in a casino roulette..