Keychron - Q6 Ultra 8k 100% Custom Brown Switch Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Programmable ZMK Launcher Software - Black

Gasket keyboard with internal foams and silent switches (linear or tactile). Much quieter than tray mount boards. O-rings don't do anything if you have silent switches, just make it even more mushy. In my tests, the quietest linears are Outemu Silent Peach V2/V3 and TTC Frozen V2. They are all quite smooth (no scratchiness), with minimal pop when hit. Not as smooth as the perfectly silky and thocky Gateron G Pro V3 Black, though. For tactiles, Outemu Silent Yellow Jade (I've been told) and Silent TOM (I tested and ordered more) are top tier, the TOM tactile is actually quieter than the Peach V2 linear. And the quietest board I have is the Keychron Q6 with gasket and minimal internal foam, on a nice 3mm thick deskmat for even more sound dampening. The Max series have more sound dampening (poron under switches, EV film and whatnot). But honestly, it's 90-95% the switch that makes a quiet board. So get something with gasket, 5-pin hotswap switches, factory lubed silent switches and your preferred keycaps.

Size (100% -> 40%)? Layout (ISO, ANSI, southpaw, Alice whatever)? Purpose (game? work? mobility)? For a full size board, take a look at Keychron Q6 HE (magnetic, Hall Effect) if you want the gaming goodness or Q6 Max (standard MX switches) if you want different switches like tactile, clicky or silent. A bit over 200, but pretty decent.

Keychron V6 Max or Q6 with Outemu Silent Ice Snow (linear) or Silent Tom (tactile) switches. K10 (I have a Pro) is decent but very basic, no gasket and no knob, a simple tray mounted board. I have Outemu Silent Peach V2s in that. Edit: the quietest silent switches I tried are Outemu Ice Snow and TTC Frozen V2. Both are 40-45g linears, I replaced the springs with 60g ones. Haimu Heartbeat is incredibly loud (for a silent), so is Kailh Whale TTC Bluish and anything that uses those weird plastic bits on the stem instead of silicone pad inserts.

I have two Keychron Q6s, a Q9, a K10 Pro and an Akko 3098B Plus. One for every mood :) Also about 1000 unused switches of all sorts (linear, tactile, silent and non-silent) and 15 keycap sets in the drawer. The K10 Pro for $100 is just as good for work / game as the more expensive ones, the difference is just how they sound and how luxurious they feel (metal case, gasket mount).

The one I have, Keychron Q6 :) The games I play use most of the keys, including numpad.

All the modern boards are 1000Hz polling (wired and 2.4ghz) and have NKRO (can press any number of keys concurrently) so "reacts fast" is a given. HE / TMR (magnetic) boards have adjustable operation point, from idk 0.2-4mm (the switch is basically a plunger with a magnet, all sensing is on the PCB), normal mechanical boards use electromechanical switches with set operation point. Some gamer boards / software has snaptap (?) and such things which are so far out of my interest I never cared. Unless you are a top tier fps competition gamer, you'll probably be ok with a normal board. It also lets you use ALL the thousands of switches and keycaps around. Magnetic and low profile switches are not standardized like MX-type normal mechanicals, so you would be limited to a very sparse selection (idk, 3-5 per manufacturer) of linear switches. No tactile, no clicky, no silent. Full size (100%): Keychron Q6 Ultra, the upcoming Z6 Ultra, V6 Max, Monsgeek M5, Chilkey ND104, QwertyKeys Qk101, Vertex Intro S100. As a 100% ISO user, I'm pretty limited and so far the wired only Keychron Q6 ISO Knob has been very good to me. Aluminum, gasket, hotswap, foams, QMK / VIA configuration, zero issues. I got one of them for €110 second-hand, with Jupiter Banana (lovely tactile) switches and localized caps. Best purchase of the year.

Keychron Q6 Max / Ultra, bought from Amazon or local shop. Do not get it directly from Keychron. Or wait a bit for the Z6 Ultra, whenever that's released.

Yep, been using a Keychron Q6 with browns for a few years and it's a fantastic keyboard. 100% layout(gotta have a numpad), programmable knob(I just use it for volume control), backlit, wireless options, steel construction. Thing is incredible.

I just picked up the Q6 Ultra today.

I picked up this keyboard from Best Buy yesterday. This appears to use mechanical, not HE switches. The label on the box says: Brown Tactile Keychron Silk POM Switch Q6U-M3 Unsurprislingly, the keycaps are KSA non-shine-through.

keychron iso v6/q6 and get silent tactile switches to swap in. silent pre-builts are few and far between https://wiki.keyboard.gay/SWITCHES.html#switches-the-switch-meta you can turn off rgb not a ton of iso/fullsized/silent boards in general

monsgeek m5 or keychron q6 not a ton of fullsized boards in general, and not a ton of iso/Swedish layout boards in you can turn off the lights, and they are heavier since they are full aluminum boards

keychron v6/q6 or monsgeek m5 and put cherry mx speed/silver switches in not a ton of fullsized boards in general getting a hotswap board and putting in your preferred switches will get you where you want to go

I have the keychron q6 he and before that the nuphy halo 96v2 and royal kludge m87. All good tbh. Personally my favorite are the m87 and the q6 he. While the nuphy was amazing for typing I really didn’t like it for gaming. Not giving any suggestions fyi I am not a keyboard know it all lol. I just like the q6 he right now but I know it’s more expensive. But the other two weren’t bad either. Stay away from gaming keyboards. I had the Logitech g915 and altho it had good and fast connectivity everything else sucked.

OK so…. 1. Double typing can be a result of tired out switches, but can also (perhaps more commonly) be caused by dirt and dust or loose connections on the PCB (circuit board) especially if your keyboard is hot swappable (you can easily remove and replace the switches without having to solder them in), it’s really easy to push too hard or bend the board and pop out a connection. Also software (firmware and drivers typically) can end up old and conflicted and can cause problems. Just FYI. 2. It sounds like you need a sturdy board and the Keychron is a hefty chunk of alumninium, so you’ll def get that. I’d always urge you to consider getting a slimmer board so that your setup is more convenient to use, the next size down is an 1800 with 96% of the keys like the the Keychron Q5. 3. When it comes to switches, there are currently 3 main types (that aren’t bog standard membrane) and there are two you’ll be interested in - standard MX switches and HE (magnetic) switches. Effectively the switches in most keyboards are “analogue” in that they work by connecting two metal terminals when you press them (MX) and performance is therefore only improvable by improving the transmission of that signal to the computer - the polling rate - the Q6 is ok compared to most gaming boards but the Q5/Q6 Max are better. Hall Effect (HE) switches activate when a magnetic field detects that a certain point on the keypress is reached and there’s an instant voltage change. These are popular now for gaming because you can set that activation point wherever you like and also have multiple on a single key. Keychron does an HE version of both the Q5 and Q6 which both also have the same 1000Hz polling rate as the max. In terms of switches wearing out, if you get a hot swappable board you can just replace them. The HE boards Keychron makes are only compatible with one type of switch (Gateron double rails) which are actually pretty good, and the lack of mechanical action makes it much less likely they’ll wear out. For gaming MX / Cherry switches ( not to be confused with cherry profile keycaps) there are two types people like for gaming, linear or tactile with a definite bump when you press them. That’s really a matter of personal taste (I can’t stand linear switches and find my fingers splaying out across the board in need of some sort of rebound) but this is where you get to sample a few, read around the subject and try them out. The Keychron keycaps are all pretty good. 4. RGB - if you mean north facing (shines straight through the top of the keycap) or south facing, north facing rgbs can interfere with certain types of keycap and generally south facing are actually considered better (they’re also much brighter from the users perspective). Keychron does a side printed OSA profile set and their RGB customisation has 22 types of setting plus adjustable brightness, speed on each of them etc. Generally, the more performance orientated the board, the less likely you’re going to get north facing rgbs. Hope this helped!

Ok, I just placed my order for a Q6. I feel like I just bet €250 on a single number in a casino roulette..

I'll probably go with this suggestion for the Q6 specifically tbh. My S/O already has a keychron she likes. May just end up swapping keycaps or switches if I need to later. I do wish that the regular Q or the pro Q were available. I like premium feel but not that extra premium price lol. Appreciate the advice!

Been using this one until just last week. Changed over to a keychron q6. It’s not as long so I can use my keyboard cover to keep my cockatiel off of it. https://preview.redd.it/c5dcj8bfp4te1.jpeg?width=5712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bff7fb246063a78c99cece3090aff3140343d3ce

https://preview.redd.it/e5qlucplp4te1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=033af9f1e0f5d234fed3fe95771297e8baff45ec The velociraptor herself