I'd get a Keychron V3. It's TKL, has limited RGB, the stock keycaps aren't terrible and it's hotswapable, so the switches can be changed to your liking. The reason I don't use mine as a primary driver is because it doesn't work with my iPad. I bought mine for cheaper without switches and keycaps.
It's also got QMK, so you can program the keys to anything. It you want to play with the Dvorak keymap, you can reprogram it to that.
I enjoy my Epomaker x Aula F108 (not the size you're looking for I know), but I'll admit I like my Keychron V3 Max more. I think it was worth the slight bump in price for the Keychron if they're available in your area.
The first thing you'll probably want to decide on is if you need ISO-UK layout (with the big enter key), or the ANSI American layout. If you are fine with an ANSI layout, you definitely have more options.
As for gaming, that really depends. If you are really into competitive PvP games, than you might be more interested in something with HE switches. These are magnetic switches instead of mechanical.
Personally, I prefer regular mechanical switches. But HE switches are definitely more gaming focused. If you are fine with mechanical switches you might want to check out something like the Evo80. You can get in either ANSI or ISO layout and is generally a really well regarded keyboard. Mechmods has both layout options for sale ([ANSI](https://www.mechmods.co.uk/collections/keyboards/products/evoworks-evo80-keyboard-ansi-layout?variant=46286231699679) and [ISO](https://www.mechmods.co.uk/collections/keyboards/products/evoworks-evo80-keyboard-iso-layout?variant=54937039307130)). I also believe it works both wireless and wired.
There are other options out there though, so it really depends on what you are looking for. Like if you really want RGB options, you might want to look at a Nuphy Gem80. But that only has ANSI layouts and I think they are currently sold out of there usually included switches and keycaps.
Keychron is also generally well regarded. For the TKL layout there is the Q3 Max. But they have a few different options, including HE keyboards. So you might want to browse their options.
hardware-wise the crush 80 is solid. support-wise... yeah the rumors are true. if you're in the EU, dealing with return shipping to china is a nightmare if anything arrives broken.
for 200 euros you have way safer bets that are just as good:
**1. Neo80:** honestly the gold standard right now. you have to build it yourself but it’s easy and quality is insane.
**2. Keychron Q3 Max:** boring answer but it just works. wireless, easy to get in EU, solid support.
**3. IQUNIX Nature 80:** (biased mention, but if you want something that looks different than a standard rectangle, check it out).
definitely skip that filco suggestion below though. legendary board in 2010, but ancient tech today
yeah the neo80 configurator is basically a final boss fight if you're new. honestly, just pick the 'Tri-mode PCB' (if you want wireless) and the 'FR4 Plate' (best all-rounder sound). ignore the rest of the noise.
regarding the lucky65: it's a great board, but just remember it's a 65% layout, so you lose the physical F-row keys. since you mentioned coding, missing F5/F10/F12 might drive you crazy unless you are comfortable with layers.
for a cheaper entry point that still has F-keys, look at the **Monsgeek M1**. it's built like a tank and easy to get in the EU.
**for switches:** since you haven't tried many, don't overspend yet.
**linear (smooth):** get **gateron milky yellow pros**. they are cheap, pre-lubed, and sound amazing.
**tactile (bump):** **akko v3 cream blue pro**. super snappy and satisfying.
**office safe:** if your coworkers hate noise, look for **ttc silent frozen** or **haimu heartbeats**. silent switches feel a bit 'mushy' but they are dead quiet.
welcome to the rabbit hole. your wallet is gonna hate it here. lol
My first recommendation would be to look at Keychron. People do have their valid criticisms but their mid-tier lineup is pretty exceptional for the price. Recently I picked up a TKL from their R line, which has an 1800 layout, and I tried to be as critical as possible and walked away really happy with it. It has backlight, a tri-mode pcb, decent switches, and keychron put out acceptable keycaps with their prebuilts. The boards are hotswap so if you want to experiment with other switches it is easy to do so. I also have a Q6 Max and both of these boards are pretty well foamed out so you're going to get a muted sound. Not silent but also not loud.
Their K10 Max I also feel is excellent value for the features.
Okay first off most mechanical wireless keyboards are what they call trimode - they work over usb, bluetooth, or 2.4 gigahertz dongle. You can (and I generally do) disconnect the battery completely (o even remove it) and treat them as purely wired. Second, the Keychron Q and V series boards are generally available both in wired only and in trimode. Third... they have been having terrible quality control problems with both of these product lines and I really can't recommend them.
On the other hand, you may find that a better deal would be to get two keyboards, a small, possibly magnetic board for gaming and a full-sized or 96% board for work. For the letter the Monsgeek M2 V5 via is kind of the platonic ideal of a 96% aluminum board. The YMDK YMD96 in the wooden case is a simpler, more compact and I think rather elegant option.
Magnetic boards, you'll have to ask someone else. I have been increasingly disappointed in the options, even the Keychron offerings have some clangers.
For a smaller conventional board, I like the Keychron J2 enough I bought extras for my media laptop and for hacking on... I've been customizing the firmware. Or the RK RK61, though that one really *needs* heavy customization... the default layout is terrible. I have custom layout.json files as well as firmware source and images to improve it rather a lot.
They have a problem that started late 2023 or early 2024 with the very flexible plate and PCB in many of the Q and V series boards with the gasket mount, where over time the switches get loosened and worked out of the PCB by the pressure of the plate and the plate foam, and you start getting bouncing and missed keystrokes. Keychron's customer support is most abusively bad, and they make people jump through all kinds of Hoops to deal with this. I have seen reports that this has been fixed in more recent versions but there's still a lot of old stock in the pipeline, and I have seen reports of people having these problems with more recent boards. My own Q Series boards are much older than the start of the problem but looking at pictures that people have posted it looks to me like the plate foam is just too thick and heavy, and some people have reported that rebuilding the board without any plate foam solves the problem at the cost of some change in the feel and sound of the board.
You may never have an issue but it's a risk.
The m2v5 is perfectly good as an office board, that's actually what I was recommending it for. It's a little bit big and heavy in my opinion for a game board but some people like a battleship.
To get an idea of the sizes and layouts that are available, the Keychron website is actually a good place to just browse to get an idea of what board configuration spark joy in your heart.
I have been a 75% fan since the early 90s, and lately I've kind of flipped to even smaller boards.
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