Keychron - V6 Max

I would avoid the Keychron C2 and Redragon boards. Redragon have a couple of recent boards that are pretty nice but that's one of their horrible old legacy ones, and the Keychron C series are their cheapest and dodgiest kit. The Pro boards are wireless with Bluetooth. The Max boards are wireless with Bluetooth and a 2.4 GHz USB transceiver. The K boards are tray mount, and stiff. The V boards are gasket mount which makes for a nice typing experience. You can get the V6 though Amazon for about $80.

V6 wired / V6 Max if you want wireless (also comes with the problem of built-in battery that will eventually degrade / fail). K10 Pro is a good basic board, but... it's basic. No gasket - it is much harsher with less dampening than the V6 / Q6. I use mine as a backup / testbed board for new switches and keycaps. Also, no knob.

Keychron Q6 HE (linear Gateron HE only) or normal Q6 / Max if you want better switch compatibility. The normal (non-HE) Keychrons also have ISO layout and localized keycaps for most EU languages believe.

Keychron V6 Max (gasket mounted and has ISO layout and localized variants) + Outemu Silent Ice Snow switches (from Ali, about €25 for 110) if you find the default (non-silent) reds too loud. Q6 if you want metal case.

Keychron V6 Max or Q6 with Outemu Silent Ice Snow (linear) or Silent Tom (tactile) switches. K10 (I have a Pro) is decent but very basic, no gasket and no knob, a simple tray mounted board. I have Outemu Silent Peach V2s in that. Edit: the quietest silent switches I tried are Outemu Ice Snow and TTC Frozen V2. Both are 40-45g linears, I replaced the springs with 60g ones. Haimu Heartbeat is incredibly loud (for a silent), so is Kailh Whale TTC Bluish and anything that uses those weird plastic bits on the stem instead of silicone pad inserts.

I recently bought a V6 Max, it’s a new feel for me in terms of typing experience. I am actually typing this post on my iPhone with my keyboard connected via Bluetooth! Nice typing feeling, on the Gateron Bananas. Hopefully holds up well. I was pretty pissed as the postman through the box over my side gate and the corner of the box has slight damage, lucky that corner only had foam inside the box and the keyboard itself seems fine. Kinda glad they lined the inner box with foam on the bottom and sides to absorb the bumps.

If you get any Keychron keyboard, get the Max versions. They sound and feel better to type on, and they have better connectivity options. I'd also avoid Keychron's low profile stuff. They're just not very good. Based on the options you provided, I'd go with the V6 Max, just for the knob and the PC plate (the other Keychron you mentioned has a steel plate, which isn't as nice to type on or listen to imo).

You must be looking at the low-profile boards. There are plenty of full-height boards from Keychron... Check the V Max series, you'll get the best bang for buck there.

Keychron q6/v6 max and get a macro pad

Keychron v6 max and monsgeek m5

I would call them the safe option but for fullsize keychron is very good, since there is not a lot of choice. For 100€ v6 max, for 120-150 monsgeek m5, for 160+ keychron q6 max and qk100.

"overpriced" is subjective, having said that, I'm also looking for a full sized durable keyboard with gaming as main use. Since I don't play FPS, I don't feel the need latency advantage (and added price) that is associated with HE switches (they also tend to sound worse, but that might only be with regards to older HE switches, not sure about modern ones). Filco, IKBC and Leopold are indeed known for durability, but none of them offer hotswappable keyboards, so if a switch breaks it's a hassle to repair. Ducky used to be known for their durability, but apprently their quality has gone down, they're the only ones I know that offer full size, hotswappable keyboards and at least have a history of durability. Personally I'm inclined to go with a Keychron v6 max, but that is mainly because Keychron somehow evades taxes if you order for the .com website. I live in Europe where keyboards are usually 30-50 euros more expensive than they are in the US due to taxes so that tax evasion trick is quite neat. Edit: Keychron is quite a young brand (at least compared to the other brands I've mentioned), established in 2017, but (for Europeans) they're easy to get and good value for money. They're not known for durability, but they're also not known for poor durability (you can't really establish a reputation for durability in 8 years). They are known for poor customer support though (then again, that seems to be a trend amongst all keyboard companies).

Lenovo Preferred Pro II for a membrane keyboard. If you want to go mechanical, you'll need to buy a hotswap keyboard and some silent switches. I'd recommend the Keychron V6 or V6 Max with the brown switches, and if that's not quiet enough, try the Outemu Lemon V3 switches.

Lenovo Preferred Pro II for a membrane keyboard. If you want to go mechanical, you'll need to buy a hotswap keyboard and some silent switches. I'd recommend the Keychron V6 or V6 Max with the brown switches, and if that's not quiet enough, try the Outemu Lemon V3 switches.

Keychron V6 Max is good for a gaming keyboard If you're feeling really cheap, Redragon 5-pin hotswap models are acceptable, or Keychron V6 or C2 pro hotswap are a little cheaper than the V6 Max. There's really not a lot of good 100% boards, the next rung up would be the AC100 or the Monsgeek M5, but those might be out of your budget.

Keychron V6 Max is good for a gaming keyboard If you're feeling really cheap, Redragon 5-pin hotswap models are acceptable, or Keychron V6 or C2 pro hotswap are a little cheaper than the V6 Max. There's really not a lot of good 100% boards, the next rung up would be the AC100 or the Monsgeek M5, but those might be out of your budget.

I'd go for something that is hotswap, gasket mounted, and supports QMK. 180 euro is a pretty good budget, you should be able to get everything you want in this budget range. Best budget would probably be in the 100-140 range. You can get Monsgeek boards, you can also get Qwertykeys Neo65 for something more custom (no RGB though), or you can get a Keychron V6 Max, or even a Keychron V6 (not gasket mount) is worthwhile for a silent keyboard. (Edit: also Akko 5075S would be a good pick) If your aim is silent, the best I have tried so far are Outemu Lemon or Peach, but my favorites are Gamakay Pegasus which makes a light tappy sound, and Kailh Whale which has a deeper "thocky silent" sound to it. I'm going to be putting the Kailh Whale in my new Pangea board when it comes in next year. Keycaps make very little difference on a silent keyboard, but it is my opinion that clackier keycaps (higher pitched) make better pairing for silent keyboards. So the good news is that those are usually the cheaper ones. But I'd just rather pick something that looks nice with my build. You can only go wrong if you mix cheap keycaps with expensive stabilizers. (which is due to low tolerances in premium stabilizers) So on to stabilizers... you'll need to pull the board apart, remove the stabilizers, and "clip the feet" and/or give it lots of dielectric grease (or cheaper... "bulb grease" which is the same but in a smaller bottle). That will cut down on noise a lot. You can get o-ring dampeners, which do make a little difference, but I only put them on my larger stabilized keys. Beyond that, get a keyboard pad to dampen your desk resonance.

I'd go for something that is hotswap, gasket mounted, and supports QMK. 180 euro is a pretty good budget, you should be able to get everything you want in this budget range. Best budget would probably be in the 100-140 range. You can get Monsgeek boards, you can also get Qwertykeys Neo65 for something more custom (no RGB though), or you can get a Keychron V6 Max, or even a Keychron V6 (not gasket mount) is worthwhile for a silent keyboard. (Edit: also Akko 5075S would be a good pick) If your aim is silent, the best I have tried so far are Outemu Lemon or Peach, but my favorites are Gamakay Pegasus which makes a light tappy sound, and Kailh Whale which has a deeper "thocky silent" sound to it. I'm going to be putting the Kailh Whale in my new Pangea board when it comes in next year. Keycaps make very little difference on a silent keyboard, but it is my opinion that clackier keycaps (higher pitched) make better pairing for silent keyboards. So the good news is that those are usually the cheaper ones. But I'd just rather pick something that looks nice with my build. You can only go wrong if you mix cheap keycaps with expensive stabilizers. (which is due to low tolerances in premium stabilizers) So on to stabilizers... you'll need to pull the board apart, remove the stabilizers, and "clip the feet" and/or give it lots of dielectric grease (or cheaper... "bulb grease" which is the same but in a smaller bottle). That will cut down on noise a lot. You can get o-ring dampeners, which do make a little difference, but I only put them on my larger stabilized keys. Beyond that, get a keyboard pad to dampen your desk resonance.

Hey, I'm in a similar situation. I have a Ducky 75% wired board for gaming but wanted something full size to fill in the work/productivity role. Specifically I wanted truly full size (no mini zero key on the num pad) & wireless so it was easy to set aside when it's game time. After a bunch of research I have the Epomaker x Aula F108 & Keychron V6 Max on my desk in a bit of a side by side. One is likely going back to the store, spoiler it's probably gonna be the Keychron. Both keyboards have very solid build quality, gasket mounted design, 2x adjustable height kickstand. The Keychron is marginally quieter but the kickstands feel super cheap in comparison, like they will break easily, and the entire board has a lot more flex. Both have very similar specs. 3 mode connectivity, 1000hz polling in 2.4ghz, anti-ghosting etc etc... The Keychron is QMK/VIA and has much better software via their launcher for easy customization, that's probably it's biggest strength in comparing the two. The F108 has software, but it's not great. That being said I've been able to customize most of the things that were important to me on the F108 via the function keys. I appreciate a nice keyboard, but I'm not quite as picky about deep customization. Lack of QMK/VIA would be a deal breaker for some. My biggest issue with the Keychron is the god-awful OSA keycap profile they selected for the stock board. Hate them! That and the price. It's simply more expensive while not offering any stand out features for me. So if you're like me, you're much better off buying a barebones V6 Max + Switches + A set of Cherry profile keycaps.... At which point the F108 is now an even better value in comparison. If you're torn between the F108 & the Pro version: With the Pro you get double the battery life (up to 8000mah), reaper switches as opposed to Greywoods, volume knob (Basic F108 still has volume keys), and the screen. The screen isn't ground breaking, but having the battery life indicator, time, & current connectivity mode is a nice visual to me. I personally think the Pro adds enough QOL for the relatively small increase in price. If you have any other specific questions about one board or the other shoot, maybe I can answer them.

I can second this. I was like you but then I decided to get a Keychron V6 Max directly from their website, with the 10% discount it set me back about 115 Euro (I am in Germany). Great piece of hardware!

Just get a barebones V6 Max. Then get shinethrough keycaps on amazon, and either some Akko Fairies (quietest switch I've tried) or Epomaker Roseveils (least mushy silent switch I've tried).

Anything from the V Max series. Idk what you mean by "low trigger point" (this can mean either physically low or a low measurement for actuation distance) but if you mean an earlier actuation point than 2.0 mm, swap out the switches.

I think most of the ones catering specifically to gamers are overpriced for what you get, but you can get a really good customizable keyboard with RGB and low latency from keychron and rest easy knowing it’ll last and sound good. In that price range you can easily get a V Series (v max if you want wireless) or K series for low profile and he will be happy with it. With the money you save you can even get him a gift card to a quality keycap site if he wants shine through or similar. I would recommend silent switches if he hates noise. Gateron makes a great silent switch.

Also recc'ing the V Max series for Keychron. You may also want to check out 96% since those are mostly full size but more condensed. Only issue is some less used keys get removed (typically scroll lock, pause, home, end, pg up, pg down). If you really need those buttons as well, then 96% won't work as well (unless you're cool with fn layers)

Looking at the history of this sub over the past year you'll see a heck of a lot more failures from the Q and V boards relative to the K boards. Of course, that *could* just mean Keychron is selling a lot more Q and V boards than K boards. Otherwise, the biggest difference you'll feel/hear will be coming from the difference between steel plate + tray mount and PC plate + gasket mount.

The case/housing/frame of the Q series is rigid, only the *keybed* is flexible here. On the V series, both the case and keybed are flexible. HE is a very interesting concept. There *was* a time when it was very expensive to implement, but those days have long since passed. These days, it is more expensive to build a decent physical connector (hot swap socket) than it is to build a hall effect sensor. I wouldn't be at all surprised to see HE boards take over the budget sector in a few years. But at the moment, you are really only paying for the hype. There *is* an advantage to HE switches when it comes to gaming. But here, what you are paying for is the software, not the hardware.

I see an issue here. While any of the Max keyboards have the low-latency 2.4 GHz wireless, it's single receiver only. For connecting to multiple devices seamlessly, you'd have to use Bluetooth which does have added latency and a much-reduced polling rate (90 Hz over BT versus 1000 Hz over USB or 2.4 GHz) A solution to this is using a wired connection in your office and at any computer, and keep the 2.4 GHz dongle plugged into your console or whatever computer you absolutely need wireless with