Pulsar Gaming Gears - X2 v2 Mini Gaming Mouse

I think you're definitely right that the sensor specs are a wash now. Comfort for bigger hands is most important for me. I have an x2v2 mini right now, and it's ALMOST perfect, but creates a bit of a strain in the carpal area. I'm not really sure what it is as it feels pretty locked in and comfortable for me (I like that it's somewat close to my previous Viper Mini), but might be a touch too thin on the sides and I think it's pinching my median nerve the way I claw grip it (relaxed claw). I was debating a crazylight but I'm not sure now, as I feel like this shape is nice but long-term strain is saying otherwise. I think there's definitely something out there that I prefer, just haven't had the opportunity to test enough to say..and there are also mice like the pathfinder where you can kinda dial in exact grip.

Lamzu maya X and the Pulser X2V2 mini. the maya's shape actively pushed it into your hand, but that constant "locked in" grip makes it fatiguing to use in productivity scenarios at that requires you to constantly move your entire arm. I'm currently looking at buying a spare Maya X for future sake, the shape is perfect and I wanna have spares now in-case the Maya X disappears from the market.

Yeah, it's not a blanket solution sure since some processors and sensors just don't do well at 1k, just as some actually are terrible at 4k or 8k and need to be down-clocked to 2k (or any other polling rate) to work properly. Actually ran into this on my Pulsar X2V2 mini, at 4k it actually is more floaty than it is at 2k (and it goes weird again at 1k). As well as some of my other mice doing the same weird behaviour as soon as I tried to down-clock them to under 8k. Honestly the polling rate is more like overclocking your GPU than anything, sometimes a lower clock yields better results. Sometimes a lower clock makes things unstable and you need to allow the chip to speed up more freely to work properly. But yeah upgrading from 1k to 8k isn't really that big of a deal, but finding that butter-zone for your mouse that makes it run perfectly is defo a big deal.

Pulsar functions nicely at 2k. Each mouse has it's own unique sweet spot though, some mice like the Maya X need 8k or they just don't quite for for whatever reason, some mice like the Pulsar X2V2 mini work best at 2k and get weird both above and below it. Unfortunately there isn't any way to actually say which mouse specifically works best at 2k polling, since you'll have to overclock/under-clock the chipset to find your own personal sweet-spot. A significantly better approach however, is to go onto both Rtings and TechPoweredUp websites and sort their mice from lowest click latency to highest click latency. The scroll down the list until you find the fastest mouse that you can afford (it may be a 2k mouse, a 1k mouse, an 8k mouse, who knows). As far as 8k DoEsNt MaTeR goes, that's like saying a CPU hitting 5ghz clock speeds doesn't matter. For some CPU's this is true and you're only hurting yourself with instabilities going up to 5ghz, but for many CPU's 5ghz is the bare minimum and they have a panic attack if you downclock them below 5ghz. The polling rate you want is highly dependent on your individual mouse, and depending in how it's setup some 2k mice are faster than some 8k mice. So it's much better to focus on latency itself and take whatever polling rate gets you there, even if that means a down-clock.

If you want pure fingertip grip, then go for it. If you have a 3D printer, print up the shapes (there is an online database of all the mice somewhere, use that to find the mice you're looking at and trial the shapes) and find out for yourself which one you want the most. If you still want the hump, then the Pulsar X2 mini is what I'd recommend (easily the best fingertip mouse I've ever touched, though I do use the hump as a rest when being lazy and browsing YouTube, not having it wouldn't be the end of the universe though). As far as grips go, it's honestly so hard to predict what you'll love and hate. Some people find the hump on the asym mice absolutely game-changing for all the right reasons. Others find it "game-changing" for all the wrong reasons. If you have the free cash (and no 3D printer) get both Fenris mice since you'll never know whether you want the asymmetric hump or not until you try it. Otherwise, I would recommend the X2F since it's taking an already amazing fingertip mouse shape (that's known to be unanimously amazing for everyone) and making it a pure fingertip grip mouse shape. It's definitely the safest option here. Personally I don't really find height to be all that impactful ngl, but do note that as the weight decreases, each gram becomes exponentially more noticeable. I mean holding 1 gram vs 2 grams is noticeable since that's a doubling in weight, so although the difference between a 130 gram mouse and a 100 gram mouse is not very noticeable, the difference between a 40 gram mouse and a 20 gram mouse is huge. That being said, shape is more important than weight, and if the shape is wrong for you, a 20 gram mouse will feel heavier (in the hand, plot twist our body doesn't use grams to measure the weight of objects, so the shape actually has more impact on the "felt weight" than the actual physical weight itself) than a 40 gram mouse if it's the wrong shape for you. So when it comes to the Gwolves mice you're gambling that they're the right shape for you. I mean nothing is stopping you from buying them, and there is a larger chance that they'll be an amazing shape for you than anything. But if you're pressed for cash and buying multiple new mice isn't in-store for you, the X2F is guaranteed to be an amazing shape and definitely the "safe" option.

Optical switches use the same mechanism as a mechanical switch. However instead of reading the switch position with the electrical contacts, they use a laser beam to detect the position of the switch (by blocking the beam before it reaches the sensor). On a piece of paper, optical is way better since you can disable debounce (the click-delay tuning that prevents double-clicking) which means you don't get no-regs when spamming the buttons. However in reality, optical switches are usually very light, when for cps you usually want a heavier switch so you can get that nice rhythm going. Not that optical switches can't be made to feel identical to a mechanical switch, just that they aren't (much like how HE switches in a keyboard don't have to be linear, but predominantly are) for marketing purposes. Though you can just use opticals anyways, whole fam uses the Pulsar X2V2 mini which is a very early optical switch mouse. We all play spam-heavy games along with fps as well, sure the optical switches feel different, but you can adapt just fine. After which you'll be able to get higher cps out of an optical compared to a mechanical since opticals aren't limited by debounce. Then again, mechanical switches also aren't supposed to debounce, the only reason they do is because of extremely chalked programming, but that's an entire different story. If you want the superior feel of mechanical, get a Mad Cats mouse. They use the correct coding for detecting the switch position through the electrical contacts. Mad Catz mice don't double-click and have unrestricted cps just like in an optical switch. So if adapting to an optical switch sounds like pain, Mad Catz is and always has been the king of cps and click latency (and never double-clicking, unless the circuit board itself is borked, or the switch itself is actually broken and not just worn). Mad Catz has a few 3k polling mice (the Pro X and Pro S3, though I think there are a few others too) which are easily the top recommended mechanical switch mice as even their 10 year old 1k mice have comparable click latency and max cps to modern 4k optical mice. So a modern 3k Mad Catz mechanical mouse is kind of a no-brainer for maximum cps with the feel of a mechanical switch and the reliability of an optical switch. Unfortunately that means a wired mouse, and a slightly heavier mouse. The shape is actually goated, but weight is equally important as shape when it comes to preventing wrist strain, the heavier and worse the shape the more you strain your carpal tunnel. However if you were already using a heavier mouse, and remember to stretch and exercise your wrist between rounds and when taking micro-breaks, you'll be perfectly fine (especially if you're under 20, your body will adapt and build muscle in your wrist to handle the weight of a mouse without ever experiencing strain, so the worry about the weight of the mouse is more for the older audience).

X2V2 mini might be something worth looking at. Sure it's not the H, but it still has enough of a hump at the back for my hand.

That is not true. I have a X2 Mini and X2V2 Mini which are 51-52g, the X2 Crazylight which is 37g feels a lot more solid than my X2V2 Mini. The tolerance are tighter too - the gaps around the buttons are a lot slimmer, the clicks are better (FE opticals vs Raesha opticals), these do cost more so they were probably spending more effort on the QC for these mice as it is the more premium option.

That is not true. I have a X2 Mini and X2V2 Mini which are 51-52g, the X2 Crazylight which is 37g feels a lot more solid than my X2V2 Mini. The tolerance are tighter too - the gaps around the buttons are a lot slimmer, the clicks are better (FE opticals vs Raesha opticals), these do cost more so they were probably spending more effort on the QC for these mice as it is the more premium option.

No that's fair, the standard X2V2 and X2H (2023 model) had really bad quality control, my X2V2 was fine though the X2 Crazylight is significantly much better built than the X2V2 Mini which had slight button wobble due to the large gaps of the buttons. It seems spending more on Pulsar's limited or "premium" editions tends to have significantly better quality than the standard ones (or that they have improved everything this generation).

I have same hand size - Pulsar X2 Mini is what you'd want. Specifically there is the Pulsar Crazylight X2 which is a more advanced version of the X2 Mini.

I have the same hand size as OP, the hump of the X2H mini causes the same issue that prevents us from reaching the front of the mouse (OP1 too long, X2H hump too high). The X2 Mini is better for our case as I main that instead.

EXACTLY the same problems as myself. I've tried a bunch of other shapes for my grip (pure fingertip/relaxed fingertip) like beast x mini, x2v2 mini, Atlantis mini, xlite v3 mini, and none came close to the feeling and aim potential the g305 gives me. the only mouse that worked similarly so far is the zaopin z1 pro, which is the only one I didn't sell and been maining since I switched off the g305. though, still waiting for a proper lightweight, good sensor and switches g305 clone (ATK please make one) so I can compare with the z1 pro.

I have 21x11 hands. Personally I prefer a palm grip 9 times out 10 and I love the pulsar x3 for this as someone who used to main the g403, the x3 is a clone with optical switches However, I had a very fun finger tip stint on the pulsar x2v2 mini which I still use sometimes for fun and when traveling. I only stopped finger tip from fatigue issues but if it works for you I def recommend it. Good optical switches too.

I think you have a lot of options in that grip style, and I’d just go with something you enjoy. I can pincer my x2v2 and sl2 easily. I’d say the x2v2 is the most agile of those followed by the sl2. My xm2 has too much back hump/width and fills the palm more consequently even tho it’s shorter than an sl2. Since my hand is about 5-10% bigger than yours I’d probably guess the x2v2 or something similarly low profile and around 120mm length would be nice

You don’t have to, but it’s a solid option. Death adders are great mice so if you aren’t having any issues, there’s no real need to change in this case and there’s plenty of options ranging from the wired death adder v3 for around 50 bucks to the new wireless v4 for loke 180 . If you wanted another mouse for no reason (like just to collect) then I’d go for something super diff just for fun lol. An X2 from pulsar is a good flat mouse that works with extended fingertip well but it’s a lot smaller than a death adder and may not be ideal for your hand size.

For large comfortable symmetrical I believe damoshark m9 is set to be very large and presumably comfort oriented and comes out soon Zowie FK1/S1 are strong options but also aren’t released yet sadly Large comfortable symmetrical mice are a little tricky to come by at the moment, but the Logitech SL2/SS2or any of its clones is a common choice for palm symmetrical. I like the xm2 a bit more as it’s wider and I like the back hump. I find the pulsar x2v2 (or v3 now) to be very comfortable as well. Its listed stats have it as smaller, but due to its flat boxy sides and rear hump it’s actually more full feeling in my palm than the superlight EDIT: I am sorry my nerd brain got distracted. I don't think these mice have bluetooth for the most part, you would have to check. I believe they all only use a proprietary dongle. However, that dongle is just a little usb cap that you could easily move from computer to computer no setup required. With that in mind, i personally would consider them good for quick device switching.

as someone come from s2, lamzu atlantis and x2h shape, ive never thought of main the x2v2 mini until recently as i thought it will small for my 19x10 hand. damn i was wrong . somehow it feels more comfortable and aiming better with it despite its small shape. it give me more freedom of motion and somewhat effortless tracking in fps that ive been looking for compared to my other mouse. definitely gonna try and buy x2 crazylight soon.

X2V2 wired from Pulsar isn’t bad. I’m currently using it right now after going thru 15 mice.

Not sure how small your hands are exactly but I would say pulsar x2v2 size 2 if you want to palm grip

Depending on grip I had gpx, pulsar tenz, pulsar x2hv2 and x2v3 this past week the tenz with its more large rear and new tech feels wonderful