JVC - DLA-NP5

Since you can control the light in your room I would get a 130” screen and a JVC true 4K projector 📽️ and you will have a true great home theater.

DLP generally just can't keep up on black levels compared to the better Epson, Sony, and JVC models. The 5050UB has been long stated to be one of the best values for quality in the industry, but it is long overdue for a laser update to it. The NP5 is an easy one to call the 'best of the bunch', but the lamp light source instead of a laser really does suck.

I am big into D-ILA and currently have the DLA-NP5 (not laser but I think similar to NZ500, but not even as good). It’s very very good. I have a light controlled, dedicated home theater with Stewart Filmscreen screen as well. The blacks, image quality and everything is really impressive so I would lean the NZ500/700, but it’s probably personal preference or other subtle differences once you cross into this territory. You’ll love whichever of these you choose. Let us know which way you go and enjoy!

People pay professionals good money to help them with answers to your questions. Equipment choice alone is barely half the equation. Good design and good integration are critical to achieving high performance. This isn’t something you should just freestyle, as there are many tradeoffs to manage based on your subjective preferences. Design informs equipment choice. It’s an iterative process as you converge on design and equipment choice simultaneously. Long throw projectors generally offer better image quality than UST at the same price point. UST are nice if you’re worried about people casting shadows or if this is a general entertainment space hosting karaoke night and dance parties. If it’s just for watching motion pictures while seated then get a long throw projector. For $5k I’d try to score a deal on a B-stock Sony VPL-XW5000ES or a lightly used JVC D-ILA projector, preferably with laser light source but if you’d rather spend less then a bulb is fine. You can find some screaming deals if you don’t mind bulbs and fake 4K pixel-shifting. If your viewing distance is >10ft then it shouldn’t matter. https://www.avsforum.com/forums/front-projector.252/ Fixed screens are cheaper than motorized screens. Acoustically transparent screens are nice because you can place the LCR speakers behind the screen, which not only looks better but sounds better. But this is also where you need to be careful as there is interaction between viewing angles/ screen size and speaker positions and seating distance. All have to be in harmony. Woven screens usually look and sound better than perforated screens, but this depends on the exact screen material, budget, viewing distance and preference. Like I said, there’s lots of tradeoffs to manage. I’d recommend minimum 7.1.4 speaker configuration, even if you have to built it in stages as funds allow. My preference in that size room is 9.1.6 but that’s going to break your budget in terms of AV processor capability, speaker count and amplification requirements. You’ll want a minimum of two subwoofers. What exactly do you mean by “sound conditioning is already taken care of?”

Black level champ, it's lcos jvc.

I have the same issue in an undedicated room with a little light and chose the Elitescreen 3D variant thinking the ALR screen will have a meaningful effect. It definitely looks good head on, but starts to lose brightness 10ft or so off-center, and is watchable up to 70deg. However, since my projector is a JVC NP5, it doesn't get bright enough to overcome a majority of the light that falls on my screen, so the ALR isn't really a feature that's needed IMO. If I could do it all over, I would just get the cinegrey and not deal with any speckling or hot-spotting. And yes, there is a major difference between the LS11000 and Ls12000, as long at you watch at night, your black levels will be vastly darker on the latter. I had the LS11000 for awhile and returned it because the blacks were a muddy Grey, and I prefer contrast over brightness.

JVC Pricing is screwy . IF you buy from best buy or crutchfield , you are going to pay msrp or whatever the sale price is at the time . You can often get the projector for significantly less from a local installer . I got an NP5 for 1500 dollars less than the best price best buy had . Think it was 3500 vs 5000. My guy said the mark up from cost to Msrp was huge . He was making plenty of money selling it at the discounted price .

You say budget isn’t a concern, but balked at $10k. Which is totally reasonable, but I think it’s important to set expectations. There is a sea of not-particularly-good projectors under $5k. At $5k you have a few decent options where color volume and black levels significantly improve. Above that, things sort of jump to $10k, where black levels and color volume either continue to improve or at least stay flat, but brightness increases. Above $10k, things explode in to the 10s of thousands. Largely for the purpose of going really big (165”+) and of course the Christie Eclipse at $400kish. This also doesn’t factor in the screen, which can cost as little as $300 and as much as $6k or more. Given you aren’t willing to properly light control, but need good brightness, image quality, fan noise, and low input lag, you’re going to have a hard time hitting all of that under $10k. I would have serious reservations about getting excited for HDR. You might find SDR content looks better. A JVC NP5, Sony XW5000ES, or Epson LS12000, and Epson QB1000 should all be on a shortlist. There are plenty of comparisons between them. Pair one of those with a positive gain ALR screen and you should have a good experience *most of the time*. Ultimately though, these still prefer a dark room, and the ALR screen will largely combat light colored ceiling and walls. You could also look at UST projectors. These kick out a shit load of light, though usually at the expense of contrast in a dark room. UST screens tend to offer better ALR effects as well. I like the new Epson QS100, as well as the LS800, but I’ve heard good things about the Hisense. Realistically though, you should strongly consider a 100-115” TV.

JVC NP5 if you can still find one. If not then Epson LS12000

Correct me if I’m wrong but the JVC NP5 has a low latency mode. Without the NP5 can have a high input lag (~165 ms) but with it enabled it can significantly reduce input lag to 36.5 ms in 1080p/60, 35.8 ms in 1080p/120 and 44.8 ms in 4k/60