Just got back from a winter ascent and camp of a local 4000m peak and I learned I needed some gear improvements. This trip was intended to find me and my climbing partner’s weak spots with our winter mountaineering equipment before we ascend 2-4 6000m peaks in Bolivia in march.
# Camping/Sleeping:
As far as sleeping goes, it was 20 degrees Fahrenheit with a real feel of 6° (wind) and I was using a 20° Nemo bag which obviously was not warm enough. I wasn’t cold per se but definitely uncomfortable all night which made for horrible sleep. So I need a dedicated winter bag. Other than that, my legs were really the only cold part that night. I had on some lightweight merino base layers and soft shell pants.
1. **What temp would you recommend for a winter and or 6000m+ bag? -15,-20,-40?** Think Denali, Aconcogua, other 6000ers or CO winter ascents. I won’t be doing any 8000m peaks anytime soon so I’ll get a different bag for that when it comes around.
**2. For legs, would you rather use a heavyweight base layer, a mid layer, or both?** Since my legs definitely needed more warmth that night, I was looking for a mid layer (think merino sweats) for sleeping when I thought why not just get a heavyweight base layer? My normal layering system for cold is: lightweight base layer, soft shell pants, hard shell for emergency. This works great in the cold but I feel there is something missing when I’m sleeping. HW base layer would work nice but be too bulky when moving maybe vs I could bring merino sweatpants and lightweight base layer and take off the sweatpants for the ascent.
# Ascent:
Other than those things, I felt pretty warm moving during our ascent the next day despite the 70mph gusts and real feel well into the negative zone. I did notice that my toes were completely numb at certain points. I could probably use thicker socks but it was UL ski socks for me that day! I currently use some mammut kento pro GTX high boots since they’re the only boots I have that support semi-auto crampons. They’re warm but I definitely push their limits in that cold. Otherwise, my fingers were only cold cause I kept pulling them out of my mitts, so I’ll get really nice liners (300gsm wool).
**1. Do I really need double boots for 6000m peaks or would something like a Scarpa Mont Blanc work well?** My mammuts are definitely more of a Matterhorn style boot and aren’t too warm so even a Mont Blanc would probably be a huge upgrade but I would rather not get frostbite. These are very expensive though every step up in warmth (MB to phantoms).
**2. What socks do you guys use for super cold ascents or winter ascents?** Right now I only use ultra lightweight ski socks but obviously that isn’t the best idea. I’m partial to Darn tough and Smartwool.
Ok so it’s important to know that the degree rating on bags is the survival rating. This is the “you probably won’t die of hypothermia, but you’re not gonna have a good time” rating.
Rule of thumb is to add 10-15 degrees F to any bag rating for the comfort rating.
Always err on the side of caution with colder temps. If you get warm, you just open the bag. Some bags even have vents (my Nemo bags do).
There are some tricks to stay warm with a bag, but for high 20’s, get at least a 15 degree rated bag. And have your son bring some good under layers to sleep in as a caution.
Top Outdoor Sleeping Bags on Reddit
1
NEMO
Disco 15 Series
79% positive of 114 users
Spacious for side sleepers; bulky, temp rating optimistic.
Crocnroll4
