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Reolink - Wired Video Doorbell (WiFi)
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Based on 1 year's data from Feb 15, 2026 How it works
I have had two Aqara G4s fail partially. One just wouldn’t stay connected when mounted next to the door. The other one stopped sounding its chime. I moved one to the attic to watch for mice and moved the other one to a door no one ever uses. Replaced with a Reolink which I’m pulling into HomeKit with Scrypted.
that's where it falls apart. I can use Home Assistant to send the image (webrtc) to the Google Home hub, have live notifications (with live view when someone rings the doorbell) on my phone, have AI face detection (using llmvision and memory), ai person detection is like 99.9% accurate here and notifications arrive after like 1 second but I really canot get 2 way audio working outside the reolink app. Tried everything, frigate, scrypted, webrtc card and go2rtc. Not possible here.
Second on reolink. I have a 8 camera nvr with an additional doorbell camera. They have a lot of different options for individual cameras depending on where you're placing them and for what purpose, the set up is easy and they work great, no subscription.
I have had my Reolink doorbell camera for about a month now. The first two weeks I was barely getting a weeks use of the battery. But after dialing in the camera and making some tuning adjustments, now after two weeks, the battery is still well above 90%. It looks like it will be awhile before I will know how long the battery will now last. The changes? Making sure the camera was on the best WIFI network. My 2.4ghz band is more reliable at that location than my 5ghz was. Assigned a fixed IP address to the camera, to make it easier and faster to reconnect if it looses the wifi connection. I was getting a lot of motion events from wind blowing the tree leaves and such, so blocking the detection from those areas greatly reduced the number of motion events (now I only get motion events (and alerts) if someone is actually on the porch). The point I am trying to make is that you can extend the battery life with some simple configuration changes.
https://preview.redd.it/3sdnvpwvdo7g1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=545c26573589dd207565b8d3a0a54c634496dcb8 The Reolink has been really good for me and no fees. I’m a renter too and had to buy a generic bracket to fit it on the door, but if you’re interested I can give you more deets on how I did that. It works really well for me. Battery lasts about 4-5 weeks before recharge. Very adjustable settings and economically priced compared to others. No 24/7 recording, but like the others have said, that’s not really possible with battery-powered.
I recommend the WiFi without battery. The battery cameras are very limited with many features missing. The size of the frame should be secondary.
If you have an existing doorbell, the Reolink WiFi doorbell cam works perfect with HA and scrypted. Works over the existing 24v doorbell wiring.
Same here. Can't see me drilling through the frame door and my Reolink WiFi is working perfectly.
Don’t get the battery one. I bought it and returned it. It doesn’t have ONVIF, RTSP, or any of the things that would make integrate with HA or Scrypted, and the battery constantly goes dead even though I had it connected to my transformer. Just sucked all around for this purpose. I replaced it with the hardwired wi-fi version and it’s 100x better. I use it mostly with Scrypted and Homekit, but it is added to my HA instance as well. The difference in image quality is negligible to my eyes although the battery version did have a wider FOV.
Reolink but not the battery version.
I’m using the WiFi (but hardwired) version and it works great. I use Scypted but I’d imagine Frigate would work as well since it uses ONVIF.
With 230v running through the chime and button (which sounds crazy to me) you could probably get away with using a Zigbee dry contact sensor like a Shelly for chime events. Anything else is going to require a transformer to step down to a “normal” level of 12-24 volts. The Reolink WiFi will work fine with this but won’t drive a mechanical chime. You have to use the one it came with. It also comes with a transformer, at least the US version does, (a small power brick) that you might be able to use the existing wiring in your wall for after it’s disconnected from the mains. That’s exactly what I did. My existing doorbell transformer wasn’t adequate so I just used the one that came with it instead. It came with a wireless chime that I use inside the house. The WiFi + battery version can drive a mechanical chime typical in USA applications but it sucks and doesn’t even work with HA anyway.
Reolink makes a couple of Wifi door bells that can be powered by the existing wiring. One can use the existing chime if you want to keep that. No subscriptions.
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