
GL.iNet
GL-MT6000 (Flint 2)
OpenWrt enthusiast's choice; good value, but lacks 6GHz.

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You don't need 6E for this, you won't be anywhere near the bandwidth limit of 6 streaming AV1 or any other codec. I spent a huge amount of time and money trying to find the best VR router for Quest 3 and PCVR. I was fixated on getting one with a 6Ghz band and it was a huge waste of time. It simply doesn't matter for this use case. 100% get the Puppis S1 recommended in another comment. It easily handles 200mbps AV1 and has no weird latency spikes or other issues that every other router/AP I tried did.
I'm not saying AV1 is the best codec, just saying that router can easily handle the bitrate. 6ghz can indeed be good in high congestion areas, however I found the Quest 3 to be really finicky with picking it up and staying on it. It seems a lot happier on 5ghz. 6ghz is also easily obstructed. I found even a chair or a person breaking line of sight with the 6ghz AP could cause issues with the signal, and in VR you notice the tiniest hitches. No such issues with 5ghz. The only device I found that "just worked" was the Puppis. I spent like a year trying to find a stutter free VR experience, it was a saga 😅 Take the advice or leave it, I don't really care, but I'm hoping to save folks some money and headaches by recommending the best tool for the job for the vast majority of people.
100% this. Just save yourself a lot of money and frustration and get this. It's the only one I found that "just works."
You could save $75 and get a Puppis S1, it works fantastic, tailor made for this use case, and half the price of that router even on sale.
I would say you want a 6e router. Put that in the room with your pc and headset. And you don't need to wire it to your main router, just to your pc. It's basically like a giant dongle that uses the fact that Wifi 6e sends a lot of data. 6e can't go through walls very well, so make sure headset and pc are in the same room, and it's not like an L shaped room with a corner blocking it or something. There's lots of youtube videos on setting it up. Also use virtual desktop, it's worth the little cost. Steam link is also okay and getting better. Air link or meta link or facebook brain blast or whatever they are called are not worth your time. Puppis S1 is also a great option. But 6e routers really are nice. If you get one of those make sure you set it up to have a 6ghz channel, and use that for the headset and have NOTHING else on that wifi channel. Heres the router list from the virtual desktop discord. I use the AXE75 cause it was discounted whenever I got it. I think spent like 80 bucks on it? Might have been used. I see one for 110 bucks on amazon right now. Ebay might work too, I'd bet you can find people selling them. I doubt used vs new matters much as long as it works. Heres a list of some others from the discord... yes one of those is literally a minion... yes it's the cheapest wifi 6e router that works well... > Community Tested Routers > The following routers have been reported to work reliably from a number of users: > (Preferred BE/Wifi 7) - TP-Link BE9300/BE550 ($179-$299 US) > (Preferred AXE/Wifi 6E) - TP-Link Archer AXE75/AXE5400 (~$190 US) > (Preferred AXE/Wifi 6E) - Davolink 'Kevin' Minion 6E ($129 US) > (AX/Wifi 6) - GL.iNet Beryl GL-MT3000 ($90 US) > (AX/Wifi 6) - PRISMXR Puppis S1 ($80 US) > (Last Resort AC/Wifi 5) - GL.iNet Opal GL-SFT1200 ($50 US) > (Last Resort AC/Wifi 5) - TP-Link Archer C6 or A6 ($40 US) > Achievable rates are subject to your specific setup, headset, wireless environment and could vary considerably. With a good setup you can expect: > AXE/BE (up to ~600Mbps) > AX (up to ~400Mbps) > AC (up to ~200Mbps)
YOU. CAN. ALSO. LISTEN. TO. ME. IF. YOU. WANT. IDC. It works fine. The better model, the cheaper ethernet only one didn't work at all for me.
The S1 connects through USB. It doesn’t have ethernet. You can connect to the S1 and your WiFi at the same time. You might have to disable automatic metric under IPv4 properties for the S1 and your WiFi adapter. Otherwise your PC can have problems trying get to the internet through your S1 instead of your WiFi. I had to set interface metric for the WiFi adapter to 10 and the S1 to 500 to make the PC prioritize WiFi for broadband access. Also make sure there is no gateway for the S1 under IPv4 and IPv6 properties. I ended up returning my S1 though. It kept having random disconnects. Using a TP-Link AXE5400 that I got from CostCo for $130. Works great and no disconnects. Same IPv4/6 tweaks for networking.
I used it for streaming MKV movie files off SMB shares from my gaming laptop. Mainly no matter what 5G channels I used, bandwidth choice, static vs dynamic IP, I would get random disconnects from the S1. Even when in the same room just 8 feet away. I even set up my Quest to forget all other wifi connections so it would not scan and roam, but it didn’t help.
I would recommend just buying a Prism XR. It is made for VR streaming, works great, and is half the cost. Edit: I had several TP Links I tried before the Prism and they did not perform well. Still had stuttering even on a dedicated router. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CFDL5Y7F](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CFDL5Y7F)
DO. NOT. LISTEN. to the people recommending that hot garbage. The puppis was the most disappointing VR related purchase I've ever made. During setup it asked for broad and intrusive permissions, made registry edits, and absolutely refused to function without an internet connection. When I bit the bullet and gave it what it asked for, it messed up my wifi card drivers, and it was a real pain in the nuts reverting all the changes it made to my system. Badly designed at best, active data snooping at worst. PrismXR products are wretched, and I suspect people are actively astroturfing for them on this sub. Save your money and buy a router, don't live like me. While we're on the subject of badly designed access points, steer clear of Linksys products, also victim to enshittification practices, with very little granular user control, and a setup page that lets you do very little aside from set a password and rename the network. I've been using a GL.iNet router which does NOT ask for a concerning amount of creepy permissions, and has excellent configuration options.

GL.iNet
GL-MT6000 (Flint 2)
OpenWrt enthusiast's choice; good value, but lacks 6GHz.

Ubiquiti
Dream Router 7
Advanced management, but limited Wi-Fi 7 range, SFP+ issues.

Ubiquiti
Dream Machine Series
Comprehensive control, stable for large homes, but slow support.

Ubiquiti
UniFi Dream Router (UDR)
Modular, user-friendly, but tricky advanced setup, poor penetration.

GL.iNet
Beryl AX (GL-MT3000)
Travel king, versatile, OpenWrt, but bulky power adapter.